There I added dark grays and blacks to the crevices. The masking was then removed and further airbrushing was done to the silver portion of the helmet. This gives the helmet some nice age and dimension. On top of that a more orange-yellow hue is applied with an airbrush. After the toothpaste, comes a coat of light yellow. Where the toothpaste goes, silver will show through. So before the yellow can go on, I painted some toothpaste onto edges and high spots. I wanted the helmet to have a lot of weathering and chipped paint. After that, comes masking to separate the silver areas form the ones I wanted yellow. I started with a gray primer, then a silver base. Helmet Painting: So we have a nice cast out of the mold, now it's time to trim the helmet's rough edges off and throw some paint on it. The good news is you can always try again if you mess up. Take special care to coat everything evenly, and not to let any sections get overly thick. Then, pour in a bit more, and do it again. It's a good idea to keep the master, just in case you need to mold it again.Ĭasting is as easy as pouring liquid resin into the hollow mold, and rotating it slowly until it starts to harden.

Which was completely unharmed by the way. Enjoy: My Warlock Helmet VideoĬasting: Once the mold was completed, and had time to cure, I popped out the master.

This is a long process, So I made a time-lapse video of the molding process. I am using rebound 40 silicone rubber for the jacket mold, and plasti-paste 2 for the mother mold. To do this, we need silicone for the jacket mold, and a materials for the rigid mother mold. This will allow us to create a lightweight, wearable plastic copy of the helmet we made. Molding: With the master finalized, its it time for molding and casting. If any blemishes or low spots remain, this should make them more obvious. Primer- With everything as it should be, I like to paint the helmet in a uniform color.Things like seam lines, bolt.rivet holes, etc can be dremeled or files into the surface of the filler. Now comes the time to cut in all of the small missing details. Add Details- With your helmet all smooth.So add filler, sand, refine, over and over and over and over. The extra cost was worth it to me, and I planned on molding the helmet ,so weight was of little importance on the master. The down side is extra weight, and expense. It is less noxious, has a nice long working time, and holds great detail. Most of the time bondo is used, but I chose to use apoxie-sculpt instead. To counteract this, filler is applied to the exterior to better define the shape and detail. Filler- The hardened helmet still has all of the geometry of the pepakura model, which is to say, it needs some help to bring it up to high rez, and eliminate the undesirable polygonal shapes.Once the paper has all been hardened, a layer of fiberglass mat and resin is added to the inside of the helmet to bring it to full strength. This is done in sections to ensure the model does not collapse while wet with resin. Fiberglass- Once the paper model was together, I hardened it with a layer of fiberglass resin painted directly on the paper.Keeping things symmetrical is paramount.Take you time when implementing this building method, and it will make life much easier in the end. However, it takes time, patience and a steady hand to get right. Pepakura is extremely accessible and easy to grasp. Pepakura- The paper templates were printed on cardstock, cut out with an exacto, and painstakingly glued together tab-by-tab.

the helmet began life as a pepakura file available here. For the Warlock costume, I took a top down approach, and began with the helmet.

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